Sugrue South Downs is revolutionising English sparkling wine with the support of actor Hugh Bonneville.
In the rolling countryside of the South Downs, a revolution is occurring. Fields are being transformed into vineyards as English winemakers craft quality wines that are rivalling those of France and Italy. One of the most exciting names leading the charge is Sugrue South Downs, owned by husband-and-wife winemakers Dermot and Anna Sugrue and backed by investors including actor Hugh Bonneville.
You may know him as Robert Crawley in Downton Abbey or Mr Brown in Paddington, but Hugh plays a secondary role as an investor and ambassador of Sugrue. He got involved with the company through fellow Sugrue investor Robin Hutson OBE, Chairman of The Pig hotel group. "I've known Robin for 10 years or so. One day I was at his house and he served a very delicious Champagne. I said, ‘which part of Champagne is this from?’ He said, ‘it's an English sparkling wine’. It could have fooled me. I liked it so much I bought into the company.”
The sealing of the deal was meeting Dermot, who trained in the UK and Bordeaux and worked with leading winemakers including Nyetimber before planting his own vineyard in 2006. "It’s hard to not to be enthused by Dermot," says Hugh. "He's quite intoxicating in the best sense of the word. Not only does he make delicious wines; he is so passionate and knowledgeable. Together with Anna, who herself is a superb winemaker, they have a unique family combo.”
The vineyard specialises in sparkling white wine and gained critical acclaim when its headline bottle ‘The Trouble with Dreams’ from the 2009 vintage was released. The quality of the next two vintages earned Sugrue a cult-like following amongst English – and global – wine enthusiasts which continues to grow year on year.
Every element of Sugrue wines is made in the South Downs. This is another reason for Hugh’s investment. The South Downs was Hugh’s home for 14 years and he’s long been deeply involved in the county, even serving as Deputy Lieutenant of the county. "It's an area I know well, and it's full of not only diverse industries, but amazing landscapes," he says.
"To see the wine sector taking off is very exciting for someone who's seen these fields gradually turning into vineyards.”
A long-standing patron of the arts, Hugh likens winemaking to art. "Exploration of the arts is what sets us apart from the beasts and inspires the next generation of entrepreneurs," he says. "The arts allow us to communicate ideas and to find new ideas, be it in the world of pure entertainment or in the world of creating new vineyards.”
In his role as investor and ambassador, Hugh hopes to not only promote Sugrue but bring winemakers together to promote the wider industry across the region. "I want to use my profile to link all these winemakers together in the same way that you can go on a wine tour in the Loire or in South Africa. There is a ribbon of vineyards developing and I want to help create wine tourism across the south.”
While a worthy investment, Hugh warns that investing in wine is "not the world for the venture capitalist”. "This is something for someone who cares about a slower pace of life and the nurturing of talent while rolling with the punches of the vagaries of the climate. For instance, 2023 was an amazing harvest and quality of grape but this year is not so good, so you take the rough with the smooth. It's a long play," he says. "This is not an investment for me. It's for my son’s grandchildren.”
Just 15 years ago, English wines were pretty thin on the ground in every sense, but the market is changing. English wines are increasingly competing on the international market, which is excellent news for enthusiasts and investors alike. "It’s great to be part of a brand that has such potential," he says.
The only shame, Hugh says, is that Sugrue wasn’t available in the twenties in the time of his famed character Robert Crawley, Earl of Grantham. "As a proud man of the country, he would've been delighted to put some Bordeaux to one side while he took a good sip of Sugrue.”
To experience Sugrue use offer code CWMAG15 for a 15% discount off your first order. For more information visit: sugruesouthdowns.com
Photography: Sarah Weal